Mountaineer, Charity Fundraiser and Public Speaker
Stage II – Underway
May 2nd
Just a quick note to say that we are heading up the mountain again tomorrow morning. Our plan is try and reach 7500m on this acclimatisation trip.
So we are moving to ABC in one move tomorrow. Over 20km and 1400m ascent will make it a long day despite being acclimatised to that height. It should take me 8hrs or so. We will take a rest day before moving to the North Col at 7000m. It should be slightly easier 2nd time around but any trip to that altitude is always a lung bursting experience and speed is usually reduced so that a snail would fancy its chances in a head-to-head.
Having reached 7000m, we will spend a night at the Col then try to reach 7500m up the North Ridge. It is an unrelenting snow slope where getting a good rhythm is the key. It is not technically challenging but will be a mentally and physically draining day – of that I have no doubt! After reaching that checkpoint we spend another night on the North Col before dropping to ABC then BC in consecutive days.
From then it becomes a waiting day. We wait at Base Camp for as long as it is necessary until the weather window opens and our shot at the summit becomes a possibility.
I will keep you posted as and when I can.
Stage 1 – Complete
Apr 29th
So last bit of news I gave was just before we headed up to Advanced Base Camp & the North Col. It was the first real test on the expedition and thankfully I came through in good health and am safely back at BC with Stage 1 complete.
Just to give you a bit more information on our itinerary. It is a 3 stage process to successfully complete this expedition. We first needed to touch 7000m before dropping down to Base Camp to recover – that is the stage we are at now. Phase II is going back to 7000m at the North Col before ascending a further 500m, spending a 2nd night at 7500m, before dropping to Base Camp again in preparation for our summit attempt. Our attempt at the summit is hugely determined by the weather but in theory we go back to ABC, rest a day, up to the North Col again, up to camp at 7800m then to 8300m the following day proceeded by a shot at the summit. The reason for all this is to allow our bodies to acclimatise, or adapt, to the lack of oxygen in the atmosphere. The summit has around 30% the O2 at sea level so this laborious 3 stage process is the means to standing on the summit…I hope that made sense.
Moving on, we moved to ABC in 2 days. We first moved to Interim Camp at 5700m which took me 3 hours. Having spent a night there – it is not the most heart warming place as in theory we only stay there once – we left at 7:30am to go to ABC at 6400m. This was a big jump, it was the highest we had been all trip. I made it there in exactly 4 hours which was good going. I was first there by a decent margin and I felt strong throughout which was a relief. The route follows along a central morraine to begin with. This undulating route was rocky underfoot and the fear of a rolled ankle was high on my list of thoughts. Much of the route was flanked by these incredible Penitentes, or ice pinnacles, created by the wind which stand over 10m tall and provide a nice distraction to the monotony of the terrain. A few more mentally draining ups and downs followed before we hit the glacier and finally ambled into camp. The advantage of getting there early was more chance to hydrate – a crucial part of acclimatising – and a decent tent spot.
2 days rest was necessary before our attempt at the North Col. At this height, many menial tasks become a real chore and breathlessness is commonplace. Headaches are regular and several teammates were suffering from sleepless nights and nausea as well. The photo below is taken from ABC looking up at the North Col &Ridge (the summit is in the very distance)
North Ridge from ABC
Onto the North Col…7000m is higher than anywhere outside the Himalayas and getting there would be a personal altitude best for a number of people. After an 8am departure, we edged our way through the maze of other teams tents and reached crampon corner. Here the harnesses & crampons were put on and our ice axes were by our side. A short walk and the heavily crevassed headwall loomed ominously over us. An experienced Hungarian climber was killed last year from a serac (overhanging snow/ice) fall on the same route so the dangers were evident. Visibility was low and recent snowfall made it potentially risky conditions but up we went. We clipped in and out of the fixed lines at certain anchor points every 30m or so and progress was slow. I had a routine which I tried to keep to which kept my rythm going – I always try to move using an odd number of steps, say 9, 11 or 13, which keeps my resting foot alternating. It is not like climbing in the Alps or Scotland. Here, everything except one’s heart rate is dramatically slowed down.
Approaching the final traverse, the winds picked up a lot and whilst being blasted by snow, the mitts and goggles became the most appropriate bit of clothing. The last obstacle before the Col is a 45 degree ladder crossing, well 3 ladders tied together to be precise, over a gaping crevasse. With that behind me, I moved to the Col and 7000m was hit!
Knight Frank at the North Col
I was first up by about 30 minutes. Ironically, if I had been an hour slower then I would have had a rather nice view of the North Ridge as the clouds parted but ce la vie, it wasn’t to be. In itself, being first up obviously means nothing. It means that I was moving well and that I felt strong on that day. The most important thing to remember is that I have to maintain that level for Stages II & III which will, I hope, stand me in good stead come our summit push.
We moved down to Base Camp yesterday where we will rest in the more O2 rich atmosphere – it is still 50% what it is at sea level – before heading back up to ABC in maybe 3-4 days time. Things are good at the moment though.
The Climb Begins
Apr 24th
Firstly I want to apologise for the delay in comms since I arrived at Base Camp. There were a few technical hitches but they have since been resolved.
I can say with a huge amount of relief and happiness that I am now fully recovered and feeling 100% after a really challenging 5 days from Kathmandu to Base Camp. My body took a real battering and, unsurprisingly, the worst possible scenarios popped into my head but that is all in the past…onwards and upwards from here!
The past few days at Base Camp have been spent acclimatising, resting and getting our mountain blessings. Mixed in with that was a customary game of Risk. Despite living in a world of constant change, Andy’s ability at Risk has not diminished over the past 12 months and my winter training seems to have gone unnoticed as he wiped everybody off the board yet again – I blame the altitude!!
We have had a couple of excellent treks to get our bodies accustomed to the lack of O2 here. We went to 5700m 2 days ago and hit 6000m yesterday which stands us in good stead for the coming challenges. The first trek was following a frozen river making gradual ascents whereas the second was a much steeper, more awkward approach scrambling over loose boulders and scree. I felt in great shape on both which was nice considering what had happened over the previous week.
We had our Puja on the 18th. This is a crucial part of any Himalayan expedition. A monk from the local Rongbuk Monastery comes to Base Camp and prays for our safe passage onto the mountain. The ceremony itself lasts a few hours and the Sherpas won’t attempt the mountain without this blessing. It is concluded with Prayer Flags being erected – the prayers written on each flag are meant to be sent as they flutter in the wind – they are commonplace in Nepal. A silk scarf and necklace is then presented by the Monk to each of us and flour is smeared across each others faces. It is a surreal but thought provoking ceremony. Oh I almost forgot, we then drink beer, rum & whiskey (at over 5000m it is a pretty effective combination) proceeded by a Sherpa dance and an afternoon nap – it is all in the name of tradition!!
Me getting blessed
It has taken a few days but the routine I became accustomed to last year has slowly come back to me. I have decorated my tent with photos of my friends and family this time around which brings back good memories and will give me strength higher up.
The plan is to go to Interim Camp today before heading up to ABC tomorrow. Advanced Base Camp is the launchpad for all expeditions and is at 6400m. At that height the body is constantly deteriorating, whereas it can just about sustain itself at Base Camp. We will rest at ABC for probably 2 days before trying to get to the North Col at 7000m. This will be the first big test for the group and a personal altitude best for quite a few so I am intrigued to see how it pans out. I will keep you updated as and when I can. I have been looking forward to this first trip up to the North Col – it is the first time we get crampons on and the first time we can really test ourselves at high altitude – it should be fun!
Everest Base Camp
Apr 21st
The most important thing to mention is that we have all arrived at Everest Base Camp at around 5200m.
Things have not all gone according to plan since my last post. Unfortunately I picked up a bout of food poisioning in Kathmandu. What provoked this I cannot determine but it has depleted my energy levels for the past 4 days. It has meant that my diet has consisted of a pack of Pringles and a bottle of flat Coke – fizz is bad, sugar is good. Everything else I attempted to eat, much to my angst, did not enjoy residing in my stomach and sought the quickest possible exit. I am feeling a lot better now though…thankfully!!
On a different note: the drive from Kathmandu to Base Camp is a unique one. The thing I found most fascinating about it is the contrast between Nepal and China. The road from Kathmandu to Friendship Bridge (border crossing) is like Kathmandu itself – chaotic. It is riddled with potholes, the exposure is extremely disconcerting and the drivers are verging on insane. Each hairpin bend or blind corner is preceded by a loud honking of the horn and a screeching of the ageless brakes. The driver proceeds to take the bend wide and gets positively irate if anyone has the cheek to be driving in the opposite direction – ensue another loud honking of the horn. All this means that getting a bit of shut eye following a 5am departure was out of the question.
Over the border we went. I wish it was that easy but at the expense of my Chinese Everest permit I won’t say anything more. From there though, it is a different world. Following the Beijing Olypmics in 2008, the manufacturing work on the highways is beyond belief. It is a perfectly smooth concrete road with a painted partition down the middle of the road which, in theory, indicates which side of the road the drivers should be on.
Then comes the Tibetan plateau. An enormous area of gradually undulating dusty moraine with this highway meandering its way through the middle. Unlike in Nepal where high jagged peaks surround you, on the plateau, the mountains are scarce but vast – Everest being the classic example. Following on from miles and miles of 5000m terrain, up pops the highest mountain on earth, standing at 8848m. The approach to Base Camp was more like Nepal again, only worse. We had transferred to Jeeps for the 2nd part of the journey and the decision was a good one as we hurtled along a dust track through rocky landscape, pushing the suspension and our bowels to the limit.
Me at Base Camp, first time this year! Congrats to St Andrews for turning 600, proud to be able to take them with me.
When we first arrived at BC, it was enveloped in cloud but come 5:30am, Everest’s enormous North Face stood majestically above us. Like last year, I picked my tent at the back of the group and with sunrise creating an orangey red glow over the face, it was justified already.
My eyes seem permanently fixated upon a little area just below the 3rd step, 120m from the summit, high on the Northeast ridge, where i turned around in 2010. I imagine that will be a common theme this year until, hopefully, I get the chance to stand at its highest point.
I will update you again before we ascend to Advanced Base Camp and the North Col
Next stop Everest…
Apr 13th
I am writing this in Kathmandu having had a wonderful 10 days trekking through the Himalaya. We reached 5000m in our acclimatisation bid and are now getting our final bits of kit together before driving to Everest Base Camp tomorrow.
As I mentioned in my last post, it was a fairly swift turnaround time from landing in Kathmandu from Heathrow and getting a 5am flight to Lukla airport. The flight itself was a little disconcerting to say the very least. How best to describe it…imagine when the pilot comes on the tannoy system in a 737 and says there is minor turbulence, please remain seated and faten your seatbelt. Now imagine that in a small twin-otter place whilst attempting to land on a notoriously dangerous airstrip perched precariously on the edge of a cliff.
The landing was thankfully successful and after a night in Lukla we prepared to get moving. As the Chinese were not issuing permits until April 10th, our itinerary was altered and the classic Everest Base Camp trek was our new acclimatisation route. On the way up the route was fairly empty which added to the experience and made it more enjoyable. Jostling for position against a yak usually ends up in a defeat for the human so avoiding that was a pleasure.
It is a well established trek done by a lot of people but for me it was a totally new experience. Having acclimatised in Tibet last year going through miserable places such as Nyalam & Tingri, it was a massive relief to have the change of programme. Tingri is a unique place and one that I will try and avoid at all costs given the armies of rabid dogs littering the dusty and unwelcoming streets. The two photos below show one of the many bridge crossing we negotiated – Mum, I wouldn’t recommend it – and an aerial shot of one of the towns we passed through.
Every night we would stay in a lodge, some nicer than others, 2 to a room. The arrival sequence of events usually started by Jason ordering milky tea. We got through vats and vats of the stuff. Staying hydrated when acclimatising is crucial and a regular re-supply of tea was more than sufficient.
It has been good getting to know my new teammates. We have two months together and as is often the case on these expeds, it is a varied bunch from all over the UK and across the Atlantic – we will certainly have some fun together. It is an experienced group with 7 of us having got to over 8000m before. As expected as well, discussions of summit day (over a month away), tent mates and oxygen are a plenty and usually take place over a game of Poker or Hearts. Having some familiar faces back from 2010 definitely helps and brings back some good memories of last year – amazingly new events from summit day still crop up. I just hope that nothing like that happens again.
The contrast from last years acclimatision programme was immense. Whereas in 2010, we stayed in a towns dotted along the road in the middle of the Tibetan plateau, this year we were surrounded by beautiful jagged peaks every step of the way. Our superstition got the better of us on every occasion as well. It is seen as bad luck to pass to the right of Buddhist monuments so often a minor detour or backtracking was necessary to give us good karma for the coming challenge.
It was great to pass through, and stay, in towns that I had heard so much about. Places such as Dingboche, Pangboche, Namche Bazaar & Lukla have been written about by generations of climbers and trekkers but to date I have been unable to visit them. Mountains such as Ama Dablam (see both pics below) are famous for their beauty, it is often seen as the Matterhorn of the Himalayas, and to have it looking down on you for a week only increases one’s desire to attempt it. These expeditions are dangerous because discussing other people’s trips makes one aware of the variety of undertakings that are out there and how few of them one has taken on. There are guys who have crossed Greenland in record time, rowed the Atlantic, climbed on K2, served in the army etc etc. I don’t necessarily want to attempt all of these but hearing their tales does open ones eyes as to what is out there and what can be achieved!
Base Camp is at around 5300m so it was important to try and get to over 5000m so that the move to BC would be a natural transition rather than a sudden jolt to the system. The whole team remained in good spirits throughout the trek and everyone seemed to cope with the altitude ok which bodes well for higher up. These early stages are vital in getting the body used to the demands which it will face on the mountain.
It is nice to have this 2 day break in Kathmandu before we ascend any higher. It gives our bodies a chance to relax as well as giving us a chance to shower and get our kit ready before heading for Mt Everest. I will update you when we arrive at Base Camp and our tents are placed in view of Everest’s great North face. I am feeling very ready for Round II.
Into Nepal we go
Apr 3rd
40 kgs of baggage and a couple flights later, our team arrived at Kathmandu around 6pm Nepalese time. As I mentioned in my blog a few days ago, our itinerary has changed from last year so instead of acclimatising in China before we hit Base Camp, we are in Nepal instead. For me this is great news. It is a new environment, new terrain and a very enjoyable trek.
We should get some internet during the 10 days of trekking so I will do my best to describe how things are going. We depart for Lukla airport – landing there is an experience in itself I can assure you – at 5am so it is a pretty swift turnaround. Really excited to get moving!!
If at first you don’t succeed…
Apr 2nd
I can’t quite believe it but I am about to leave to climb Mt Everest and hopefully complete my 7 Summits project.
The last 48 hours have been stressful and the last 24, absolutely manic. When I get on that plane and leave this country, I leave my friends & family who have supported me so faithfully throughout this process and that is always one of the most challenging obstacles to overcome. The mental strength required to have a successful Everest expedition is one of the biggest factors and that is constantly tested when I know the stress and anxiety my trips cause to those close to me. I have a brilliant network of support at home who have always believed in me and I can guarantee that will make a big difference when the going gets tough up there.
Everest 2011 kit
So much has happened in the last year regarding my 7 Summits attempt. I unsuccessfully tried last year, getting 120m from the summit before turning around. Since then it has been a lot of hard work. I decided I wanted to go back, but this time, it was going to be the final mountain of the 7 which prompted expeditions to Antarctica and West Papua. Both of those two trips were fantastic and that doesn’t even come close to doing them justice.
Now onto Everest, the highest mountain in the world, standing at 8,848m. It is a 2 month expedition to allow my body the time to adapt to the lack of Oxygen in the atmosphere. It will push me to my limits and I can only hope that I will be able to overcome the struggles that will invariably come my way. I feel prepared physically and mentally, much more so than last year, and I hope that stands me in good stead.
I have taken the right steps to get to this stage. Despite what happened last year, I am determined to complete what I set out to achieve mid-way through the book ‘Facing Up’ when I was 17 which is to stand at the highest point in each of the 7 continents.
I am going to leave the UK with the following quote from Thomas Edison:
“Our greatest weakness lies in giving up. The most certain way to succeed is always to try just one more time.”
Promo video
Mar 30th
A few students at St Andrews decided, at the beginning of this year, to set up a production company in the university. The idea was to make short videos of students, for students. The success of “Bubble TV” has been enormous. It introduced everyone into the weird, wonderful and unique world that is the University of St Andrews. It has covered traditional events such as Raisin Sunday as well as the Scottish Rugby team training and our fashion show, the biggest student fashion show in the UK, FS 2011.
I am very lucky that Bubble TV agreed to make a video of me and my 7 Summits project. The work Ally in particular did was beyond what I expected so thank you very much. I hope you enjoy his creation. (I recommend watching it in HD having clicked play)
p.s. Please take a look at my Justgiving page and support the RNLI. It is a wonderful charity and a very worthwhile cause!
Recent media
Mar 29th
I just wanted to make you aware of a few media pieces that I have had over the past few days.
Time is ticking away until I leave this Saturday. I stocked up on Berocca and the equivalent of Vaseline yesterday – haven’t re-watched the video of my Everest exped last year, I feel that a bit more care should be taken at all times. Forgetting to put sun cream on for even an hour or so at those UV levels can be a mistake you will remember for some time – I still have marks from where I got burnt last year for example. One of the many things that I have learned from 2010.
a) An article on Page 11 of the Evening Standard from yesterday:
b) An article from the Daily Herald:
http://breakingnews.heraldscotland.com/breaking-news/?mode=article&site=hs&id=N0171481300879577965A
c) A short video that ITV made for the Daily Record:
Not long now
Mar 23rd
Just 10 days to go now before I depart to attempt Mt Everest and hopefully complete this 4 year project.
I leave St Andrews on Saturday which is a mixed blessing. In some ways it means another positive step towards getting on that plane to Kathmandu but it also represents a lot of goodbyes to many of my closest friends. The are so many people at this university who have supported my 7 Summits attempt from The Principal, the 600 team to a brilliant networks of friends who have helped me in various different ways without asking anything in return. I am hugely grateful for their help.
It has been a pretty hectic week and a bit since getting back from Carstensz with media, sponsorship flags, kit, training and of course weight gain all to be considered. Thanks to a protein heavy diet, I have managed to get my weight and muscle back on so feel in good shape for the coming adventure.
Our team has been finalised for the expedition. I will be spending over 2 months with what seems like a good bunch of guys and one girl. There are a few returning climbers from 2010, another chap who I climbed Denali with as well as an organised and experienced leader so all is good in that respect. As my experiences last year showed, having good relationships and trust amongst your team can be the difference between not just the summit or not but potentially, life and death.
Unsurprisingly there are still a number of things to finalise but at this moment in time I feel ready for the challenges ahead of me. Going back to the North means I know what to expect higher up, all but 120m anyway, which I hope will make the difference. The route will be the same but I am very happy to say that our acclimatisation program will not. The Chinese are not issuing permits until 10th April which means we do our initial acclimatisation treks in Nepal opposed to China. The trek to Ama Dablam, often seen as the Matterhorn of the Himalayas – i.e. it is a beautiful mountain, is a great one and it also means we avoid spending too much time in places like Tingri & Nyalam where so many people got ill last year.
If you want to get a taste of the route we are going up then watch the video below. It is a brilliant 3D representation of the original route that George Mallory pioneered in the 1920′s. Remarkably, the same route is still used today which is another indication of quite how impressive his attempts were.
On a different note, as you know, I am climbing in aid of the brilliant charity, The RNLI. The work this charity does is remarkable and they need all the support they can get. Please support them by following the Justgiving link on the right.
