If you can wait…

So here we are, at Base Camp, still!!

Unsurprisingly, a lot of time is spent reading, chatting and preparing oneself for the task ahead. I usually take solice in other people’s words and quotes (they are written far better than my own) and tend to suit most situations.
The poem ‘If’ by Rudyard Kipling is one that, more often than not, fits the bill and one line now is more relevant than the others…”If you can wait and not being tired by waiting.”

The summit of Mount Everest is the height of the jet streams and subsequently one can only climb when the winds subside. Our acclimatising is complete, mentally and physically I now feel ready to take on the slopes of Chomolungma, but, and sadly it is a pretty big but, we cannot do so until those winds die down.

Our Sherpas have made some unbelievable, and I truly mean unbelievable, carries to high camps showing some remarkable feats of endurance to prepare for the ascent but that summit still remains elusive for the meantime.

Down here at Base Camp things haven’t changed much. Still windy but spirits are high. We had a great “pub quiz” last night which raised the competitive spirit a wee bit.

Fingers crossed for the weather. I am looking forward to getting up there for that final push…

An Extra Year of Wisdom?

So the first piece of interest is that I am writing this one year older than I was yesterday. To be quite honest, this is of little interest to anyone but myself, but thought that making it to 21 was newsworthy to someone at least.

To the expedition then – since I last wrote, which was quite a few days ago (I apologise for that), we have retraced our steps up the mountain but extended it slightly by spending two nights on the North Col and reaching altitude bests along the North Ridge before heading back down to Base Camp.

From the beginning then. Last time we headed to ABC we spent a night at Interim Camp to assist with acclimatisation – this time however, we went straight from BC to ABC in one go which is 16 miles across rocky terrain. Unlike last time though the scenery was less exciting and the novelty factor was completely eradicated. We set off early and eventually Andy and I stumbled into ABC after 7 hours followed by a lot of weary bodies. As is often the case after a tough move, the ensuing rest day was much appreciated and provided much needed hydration, nutrition (vague term but I will get onto that later) and relaxation.

Come morning, the rucksacks were loaded, incidentally one of the most soul sapping experiences as the kilos compounded and lifting the bloody thing became a task in itself, and we were underway. The heat from the sun was completely debilitating. Ever since I was very young playing sport, I have struggled with extreme heat so I knew it was going to be a hard day. The first half of the route to the North Col was familiar and on we plodded. Following the serac fall the week before, the fixed lines were changed and the route meandered up to the left along steeper snow and ice. Plod plod plod, fixing in and out of the anchors, crossing over the ladders (something I’m still not comfortable with) and we staggered into our Camp 1. The photo attached was taken on the route to the North Col.

Now, onto nutrition. Very little occupies more air time amongst expedition members than that of food. At Camp 1 we were onto freeze dried rations – I am unsure if that was a step up from the Spam we had at BC & ABC or not – and the lifestyle was challenging. At that altitude (7000m+), even the most menial task is lung bursting – one comes back from going to the loo completely exhausted for example – and one’s appetite is shot. It is necessary to boil snow to make water and when one’s freeze dried meal is ready, the thought of actually consuming it is the last thing on ones mind.

Half our team tried to move to 7500m up the North Ridge on the first day but nobody even came close – the weather was awful. The following day the weather was deceptively cold. The blue skies were misleading because as soon as we hit the never-ending North Ridge the bitter bitter winds set in and once again, progress was limited. The route to 7500m is just one enormous snow slope with few features of note and just one rope to clip in and out of. One or two members suffered a bit of frostnip which has thankfully subsided down here at Base Camp.

Having hit a new altitude personal best again, spent two nights there, we descended down the Headwall and back to ABC. I had an enjoyable descent as two Sherpas set off the same time as me so we went down at a good speed – their infectious smiles add to any time on the mountain.

I am now writing this from Base Camp having descended that 16 miles…again!! Hopefully only once more as it is a tedious route. The trip itself is proving, in the words of a Yorkshireman on the team, “hard graft!” I have lost quite a lot of weight which is rather depressing – this high altitude diet is amazingly effective – so we now have a number of days at BC before heading to the summit…hopefully in a week or so. I aim to keep you posted on how things are going.

It is worth mentioning my feelings on my 21st . For years I have envisaged celebrating it here so it was a very surreal but enjoyable feeling. Thank you Josh for relieving the Sherpas of the cooking duties and creating a wonderful dinner – much appreciated. Fingers crossed it will be another memorable year…

A personal best and back again

I am afraid that I have to start with solemn news. Sadly there was a serac fall earlier today on the route up to the North Col. News at the moment is still coming through but it is confirmed that three people were caught at the wrong time in the wrong place. A Hungarian man was killed, another was rescued and a third is still missing. It was a very unfortunate accident that was completely unforeseeable. My thoughts, prayers and condolences are with the missing climber, and all their families affected.
 
I cannot remember exactly what was happening last time I wrote, sadly my internet access here is not what it is back home and my memory seems to be impaired as well, but im pretty sure it was just before we left Base Camp to head high.
 
Our itinerary is a three-pronged approach where we first hit 7000m i.e. the North Col before descending to Base Camp. The second move is to 7500m prior to resting at BC again in preparation for the finale of the expedition and our summit attempt, which, in theory should be in under one months time. The reason for this is to allow our bodies adapt to the decrease in Oxygen in the atmosphere. The summit of Everest has around 30% of the Oxygen available to us at sea level and it requires weeks / months of acclimatising for our bodies reach these extreme altitudes.
 
So we headed off to Advanced Base Camp at 6400m via an Interim Camp a week or so ago. The trek to ABC is 16 miles long across rocky morraine that winds around a nearby mountain, Changtse, following a vague path. There were some fantastic views along this trip, the highlight being the ‘Penitentes’ which are enormous vertical stacks of ice, almost like inverted icicles, created by the winds. Eventually the colourful sight of prayer flags and tents that represented Advanced Base Camp came into view and into the tent we collapsed. The next 24 hours was thankfully a “rest day” which helped us acclimatise but the altitude jump meant there was a fair few coughs and headaches spread around the team – thankfully I managed to escape relatively unscathed.
 
If I thought Base Camp was windswept and barren then ABC made it look positively luxurious. It is on hilly, rocky terrain, with sporadically placed teams represented by rows of tents from where every attempt to head to the north ridge of Everest is launched from. A 1 hour trek meant we had reached “Crampon Point” and time to really switch-on was upon us. On go harnesses and crampons, (something that worryingly was not done correctly by everyone), across an icey plateau and we were at the base of the “Headwall”. In theory it was only a 4-500m vertical ascent, all up fixed ropes, but in practice it was going to be a physical and mental test that would split the team in the way they coped.
 
It was great to get crampons on again and hear them bite into the steep blue ice as we gained altitude. I was climbing in a great routine with Pete my tent mate and step after step we got closer to that elusive 7000m point. The highest point either of us had reached had been the summit of Aconcagua at 6962m, so it was a new personal best for us to finally cross over a horizontal ladder laid across a crevasse and, once more, to be met by multi-coloured tents and a wonderful view of our route up the north ridge. The North Col is higher than any point outside the Himalaya so it was understandably a very satisfying mental box crossed off.
 
A quick descent, well I say quick, it was somewhat delayed by some people’s ability to abseil down a rope correctly, but we reached the base of the Headwall. After not too long we were welcomed back into ABC by a cup of hot chocolate – all in all a challenging but ultimately rewarding day.
 
One more well deserved rest day in ABC and we were ready to head back down to 5200m and the safety of Base Camp. The descent was long but everyone made it back in a three day period and we now have 5 “rest days” at BC before heading back up again.
 
My proudest moment of the whole expedition has to be remembering to bring the board game “Risk”. To date we have practically played a game per day with Andy coming up trumps more than I would like to admit but hopefully the altitude will impair his tactical judgement over time. These rest days are all about killing time and letting one’s body recuperate before the next challenge ahead.
 
I have to shoot as a queue is fast developing behind me but I hope to write another blog prior to heading up to 7500m.

Geordie's Expedition Sponsor – S.W. Mitchell Capital

Preparing to head high

We have now spent four nights at Base Camp which have provided many intriguing tales as well as some good challenges.

After a few rest days we went for a trek to 5600m up a frozen river / valley. Luckily the team has recovered from their somewhat free flowing bowels so we all made it.

The next day however provided a rather sterner test. Josh described it as a “dig deep” day which was a very apt description. The night before was seriously cold and snowy and as we were settling in for bed, an enormous avalanche went off. It made me think of my friends climbing from Nepal, I wish them all the best. The aim of the day was to get to 6000m which in itself shouldnt be a massive issue but the route was very steep and very bouldery. Combine this with a layer of fresh snow made for a challenging days ascent.

I enjoyed the challenge and as the first real test we had experienced, it spread the group out a fair bit. Though I managed it, not all of us made it 6000m, but it was a satisfying checkpoint to reach. As much as anything else, it was a good way to guage the fitness and ability of the group.

Yesterday we experienced what is known as a Puja. This is a religious tradition that is the custom before an expedition to Everest. The sherpas won’t set foot on the mountain until this ceremony has taken place. A local lama from the Rongbuk Monastery (highest one in the world) comes to bless some of our equipment that we intend to take to the mountain. The ceremony includes throwing rice onto a pile of rocks that have been decorated with Prayer Flags. This would have been fine but sitting near the front put one in the firing line for the barrage of rice. It concluded with flour being thrown and this provided the Sherpas with immense amusement as they could easily justify showering us with flour by saying that it would ensure our safely on Everest.

We are now waiting at BC for another day before heading up to ABC and then to 7000m and the North Col. This should provide a much sterner test for everyone.

I look forward to keeping you all posted on how things have gone.

A View to Savour

Right so we have reached Everest Base Camp – more on that in a little bit.

My last blog was from a little town called Nyalam. Not the most aesthetically pleasing place in the world and the food matched its looks but a few treks on some nearby hills got that acclimatisation process underway. We were staying in a nice little hotel but being on the 5th floor made headrushes an often occurring event. I was in a room with Jonathan, a Yorkshireman who is trying to become the first firefighter to climb Everest, and Max, an all-American chap of a similar age to myself – two examples of the contrasting characters on this expedition but both great guys.

The most prominent issue was of course going to the loo. Unsurprisingly, when one drinks c. 6 litres of water per day, it makes the oh so sought after 10 hour sleep even more out of reach as one’s bladder inevitably comes calling at 2am.

After leaving Nyalam we headed to Tingri. I was warned that the stray dogs, of which there are hundreds, would make a bit of a scene but it was more hectic than I imagined. It was modern-day 4 legged warfare out there that lasted 24 hours a day but a good pair of earplugs just about did the trick. We did some more treks and reached around 5000m which was a good benchmark for what was to come, and some of the views were just fantastic. The weather was perfect – fingers crossed that it lasts.

Had a nice couple of days there and one of the guys brought a rugby ball as their luxury item which provided some entertainment. It turns out that Josh has a pretty good knack of football as well as rugby. Quite a few team members have been suffering from somewhat unstable bowels, thankfully I avoided any complications, which temporarily curtailed their acclimatising but all is good now.

Fast forward and here we are, at Everest Base Camp. WOW!! For years I have had a picture of Everest on my wall at home and on the background to my laptop, yes, I am that sad, so to finally be here and have that exact view every morning is an incredible feeling. Ever since I came up with that grand plan of climbing Everest, I never wanted to see it until I was about to climb it and I cannot believe that time has come.

When we first caught a climpse of Everest, the northeast ridge and that fearsome north face, it sent my hairs standing on end. I have literally dreamt of that moment and it didn’t disappoint. The photo doesn’t come close to doing justice to the sheer magnitude of this mountain. Base Camp itself is on a massive rocky plateau with sets of tents sporadically placed around. It is windswept and despite the amazing views it is not a particularly welcoming place.

We are in Base Camp for the next few days before heading up to ABC and then the North Col at over 7000m. I am seriously excited to get onto the mountain proper, it is going to be our first real test. I will update you all after that.

A couple of random things to finish with. Number 1, I wish Digby all the best with the Procession at St Andrews. For those that don’t know, and that is probably most of you, the Procession is very surreal event that typifies St Andrews. 100+ characters (represented by students at the uni) who have been involved in St Andrews’ illustrious history dress up in outfits that suit that character, whether it be Mary Queen of Scots or Fridtjof Nansen, and march around the town with thousands turning out to watch. A sight to behold, worth googling anyway.

Number 2, I heard the other day that Newcastle United were promoted back to the Premier League…what more could I ask for!! I hope that Mr. Baker Baker will finally be silenced!

News from China

I am writing this from China which basically means our journey from Kathmandu to Friendship Bridge which is the border went smoothly, in fact, I don’t think I could have chosen a worse word! Our team departed Kathmandu early on the 6th and the roads were somewhat primitive.

As I said in my last post, Katmandu is dusty and chaotic and this is none more evident than when a passenger in a minibus. There were potholes everywhere and after a somewhat restless sleep, a wee kip would have suited me very nicely but the Nepalese clearly thought otherwise as yet another bump catapulted my head into the ceiling…painful reminders of where we were but it was an enjoyable journey.

Fast forward past a somewhat challenging border crossing into China and everything changed. The Chinese roads were completely smooth which was a relief. Picture the final five minutes of the Italian Job, pre-Michael Caine’s great idea, (something that still intrigues me but that is a red herring) and that was what the road was like. Jeremy Clarkson’s heaven with steep cliffs and hairpins galore.

We have now reached Nyalam which is at about 3750m - a bit of a gain from where we were so there are a few headaches floating about amongst the team but nothing serious. Today was fun as we went for a bit of a wander to 4000m or so which was a good way to get the red blood cells produced and to get the legs moving after so much travelling. The next few days will take a similar pattern, “climb high, sleep low” is the best acclimatisation pattern and should stand us in good stead for when we reach Base Camp (5000+ m) in a few days time.

One of the more exciting things is undoubtedly the stocking up of western goodies while we have the chance. What I mean by this is basically Pringles, Milkybars but sadly no Diet Coke anywhere (it is a flavour thing before you ask). Matt and Pete, two top guys also climbing for H4H, find it amusing that I would want it anyway and in their eyes I should “man up” – probably true and Matt has served in Afghanistan several times so I should probably listen to him. I also purchased a $2 watch which made me very happy. After 20 mins one of the buttons fell off so it is now stuck on Nepalese time – fine when we hit the mountain but for now I have to think 2hrs 15mins ahead in Chinese time. Nigel gave it a lifetime of 2 weeks, I reckon more like 1 but who knows.

I doubt I will be writing again until Base Camp where I will be very excited I imagine but you just never know. Access here is sporadic so thought I would take advantage while I could!

Across the globe

I am writing this from Kathmandu which is good news in itself as it means I have landed safely.

A very good friend of mine seemed to be more jealous of me going to Kathmandu than any other aspect of this trip and in many ways I can see why. After a successful couple of flights (we went via Delhi) we all met at the airport and then got a minibus to our hotel. To say that Kathmandu is hectic would be a major understatement. The place is chaos, with bikes, cars and motorcycles weaving in an out of you and each other in a dusty but immensely colourful place.

A lot of haggling has taken place to get the final bits and bobs for this expedition. This alone is a process I enjoy. The challenge of getting something at a particular price requires a number of different techniques – I am by no means master of this yet but as they say on Kilimanjaro…polle polle (slowly slowly) and hopefully I will get there eventually.

I have now met my full team which was nice. I am spending just under 70 days in a very intense and stressful environment with complete strangers and getting to know these guys & one girl better is a wonderful experience. A complete mixture of ages, experience, background and nationalities should provide a number of entertaining stories.

We are using “Top-Out” Oxygen masks on our ascents and Mr. Top Out – a much easier name to remember – came around earlier to explain how it all worked. It is a great system and should serve me well.

What now? Well the permits to get into Tibet are the first concern as the Chinese keep delaying the date of entry (a Dutch guy on our trip who was planning, but now can’t, to cycle to Base Camp and has subsequently been stuck in Kathmandu for 10 days) but hopefully that will be sorted.

In theory we will head out of Kathmandu tomorrow morning. As Base Camp itself is over 5000m, a lot of acclimatising is needed before we reach there but getting to the mountain will be a big step. To catch sight of Chomolungma as they call it in Tibet for the first time will be seriously exciting.

I will keep you posted as much as I can but cannot promise when my next post will be.

The lights turn green…

So, this will be final post before I reach Kathmandu. Never thought I would be writing this…

Three years have now passed since this bonkers idea of climbing Everest and the highest mountain on each of the other continents popped into my head. Now all the months, weeks and days have been crossed off my calendar – that elusive date of April 3rd – to date just something in the horizon has now crept up on me.

Suppose I should start with a few thank yous. Thank you to my main sponsors: SW MITCHELL CAPITAL LLP & LIFEBOAT TEA for supporting me – getting here would have been a much much greater challenge without you and I am hugely grateful for your support, I will do my absolute best to get those banners to the top. Thank you to all my friends. You have always supported me in this venture and that has made a big big difference. Thank you Freddie for all you have done, would have been an absolute nightmare without you. Lastly, thank you Linnea and my family. You have put up with more than anyone else, from tantrums about this and that to the exhilaration that comes with all my previous summits and the anguish in the final few months preparation for Everest. None of you have ever questioned what I am trying to achieve and I will put all of the confidence you have given me into those final few steps to the top of the world.

“Be ready when opportunity comes…Luck is the time when preparation and opportunity meet.” -Roy D. Chapin Jr.

I have prepared in the best way I know how. I am in physically the best shape I ever have been in, I am mentally ready for whatever challenges this mountains throws at me over the course of this expedition and as for the opportunity part…I know how lucky I am to be given an opportunity to climb to the highest point on earth. There won’t be many other 20 years old on the mountain and I intend to grasp that opportunity with anything and everything I have.

Saying that, I am also 100% aware that getting to the top will mean nothing if I can’t recount my tale at the other end!

Keep checking this blog. I will update it as much as I can without boring you and hope to give you an insight about what it requires to climb Mt. Everest.

E-Day fast approaches

LEAVING TOMORROW!!!

So many people are asking, are you nervous? Are you excited? The answer, if either one of those is appropriate, is most certainly the latter. I am so close to getting on that plane bound for Kathmandu and having prepared for so long, I just cannot wait. Saying that, I am also extremely focused. I have waited a long time and holding stock of what is ahead is crucial.

It has been a good week or so since my last blog of any great length but also has proved quite tough. My girlfriend came to stay for four days before shooting off to Sweden. Had a fantastic few days with her, she has always always supported me but saying goodbye at Gatwick was by no means easy. I just hope our next encounter at Heathrow arrivals in June will be a celebratory affair – fingers crossed!!

I have had a bit of TV which was fun. Watch this space when it is all finalised…

Other than that, I have packed which is a great step. On previous expeds I have left it rather late which for such an organised person is not the best approach but I thought this would be a better idea.  I hope these pics give you an idea of what kit is required to climb Everest. Obviously everything is not on show but minimising everything that is laid out into just 2 bags which will be my life for the next 70 days is quite an odd thought!

My patron Sir Ranulph Fiennes once said: “There is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing” – I only hope that my clothing does the job!

The Pride of North West Hampshire…

Just had an interview with my local radio station: Andover Sound 106.4- The Pride of North West Hampshire

Please listen…http://www.andoversound.com/pages/extranet/seven-summits-challenge-i-5754.php