So the first piece of interest is that I am writing this one year older than I was yesterday. To be quite honest, this is of little interest to anyone but myself, but thought that making it to 21 was newsworthy to someone at least.

To the expedition then – since I last wrote, which was quite a few days ago (I apologise for that), we have retraced our steps up the mountain but extended it slightly by spending two nights on the North Col and reaching altitude bests along the North Ridge before heading back down to Base Camp.

From the beginning then. Last time we headed to ABC we spent a night at Interim Camp to assist with acclimatisation – this time however, we went straight from BC to ABC in one go which is 16 miles across rocky terrain. Unlike last time though the scenery was less exciting and the novelty factor was completely eradicated. We set off early and eventually Andy and I stumbled into ABC after 7 hours followed by a lot of weary bodies. As is often the case after a tough move, the ensuing rest day was much appreciated and provided much needed hydration, nutrition (vague term but I will get onto that later) and relaxation.

Come morning, the rucksacks were loaded, incidentally one of the most soul sapping experiences as the kilos compounded and lifting the bloody thing became a task in itself, and we were underway. The heat from the sun was completely debilitating. Ever since I was very young playing sport, I have struggled with extreme heat so I knew it was going to be a hard day. The first half of the route to the North Col was familiar and on we plodded. Following the serac fall the week before, the fixed lines were changed and the route meandered up to the left along steeper snow and ice. Plod plod plod, fixing in and out of the anchors, crossing over the ladders (something I’m still not comfortable with) and we staggered into our Camp 1. The photo attached was taken on the route to the North Col.

Now, onto nutrition. Very little occupies more air time amongst expedition members than that of food. At Camp 1 we were onto freeze dried rations – I am unsure if that was a step up from the Spam we had at BC & ABC or not – and the lifestyle was challenging. At that altitude (7000m+), even the most menial task is lung bursting – one comes back from going to the loo completely exhausted for example – and one’s appetite is shot. It is necessary to boil snow to make water and when one’s freeze dried meal is ready, the thought of actually consuming it is the last thing on ones mind.

Half our team tried to move to 7500m up the North Ridge on the first day but nobody even came close – the weather was awful. The following day the weather was deceptively cold. The blue skies were misleading because as soon as we hit the never-ending North Ridge the bitter bitter winds set in and once again, progress was limited. The route to 7500m is just one enormous snow slope with few features of note and just one rope to clip in and out of. One or two members suffered a bit of frostnip which has thankfully subsided down here at Base Camp.

Having hit a new altitude personal best again, spent two nights there, we descended down the Headwall and back to ABC. I had an enjoyable descent as two Sherpas set off the same time as me so we went down at a good speed – their infectious smiles add to any time on the mountain.

I am now writing this from Base Camp having descended that 16 miles…again!! Hopefully only once more as it is a tedious route. The trip itself is proving, in the words of a Yorkshireman on the team, “hard graft!” I have lost quite a lot of weight which is rather depressing – this high altitude diet is amazingly effective – so we now have a number of days at BC before heading to the summit…hopefully in a week or so. I aim to keep you posted on how things are going.

It is worth mentioning my feelings on my 21st . For years I have envisaged celebrating it here so it was a very surreal but enjoyable feeling. Thank you Josh for relieving the Sherpas of the cooking duties and creating a wonderful dinner – much appreciated. Fingers crossed it will be another memorable year…